While Verona has plenty of its own charms, it gets busy in the Summer. And on this trip it’s also been hot, with temperatures around 35 Celsius. Thankfully, there are lots of smaller and quieter destinations to be reached by public transport, and Italy’s rail system is usually efficient and easy to use. Juts don’t forget to validate your ticket.
Today I’ve chosen Trento, around 90km north of Verona. There are plenty of rail options on this route, which eventually heads into Austria via the famous Brenner Pass. This means selecting the correct ticket. The high speed Freccerossa trains cover the journey in about 45 minutes. But there’s no need for hurry here, and a regional train will get you there in a little over an hour for a third of the price.
The train follows the Adige valley through fertile countryside. Steep hills on either side are lush with trees and the slopes and fields are carpeted with vines. Some of the grapes are used to make local specialties, but Pino Grigio and Soave are also very common here; the town of Soave itself isnt too far away.
Trento station is busy enough on a Friday lunchtime, but within ten minutes I’m wandering down winding streets, almost all of them leading to the Cathedral of San Vigilio which dominates the main piazza.
Unsurprisingly, Trento has Roman origins, but in the nineteenth century came under Austrian control – as did many towns in this part of Italy. And while annexed to Italy after the First World War, the Trentino-Alto Adige still has a number of autonomous powers today, including transport and healthcare.
It may be the heat today, but for a town of 119,000 people this places is incredibly quiet. The streets around the piazza are filled with elegant buildings featuring colourful frescos on the walls. It really does feel like stepping back in time, and the absence of crowds makes a huge difference.
There are a handful of cafes and bars along these streets, though the only thing spoiling the ambience today is a collection of aggressive pigeons. They strategically wander around the pavement before suddenly jumping up onto tables, leading to much flapping about – not from the birds but from the diners.
Trento also positions itself as a cultural centre. Some of the palazzos have open courtyards to wander about in, or local art and history exhibitions. There’s even political art on the streets, where a bench suggests that the world would be a disaster without the European Union. As an EU passport holder, all I can say is that it certainly makes for shorter queues at the airport.
While Trento has plenty of man made beauty on the ground, nature has its own ways of showing off round here. Just behind the railway station is another form of municipal transport. The Cable Car sweeps visitors some 400 metres to the slopes of Monte Bondone. Hiking trails are all around, while in the winter this place becomes a ski resort. For the less active, it’s a great place to soak in the views.
The cable car itself celebrated its centenary in 2025. The current structure dates back to the 1960, and certainly feels that way as you step into the car. At the top, the village of Sardagna offers a couple of cafes and hotels. It’s possible to walk back down into town, but today’s heat has ruled that out.
I earlier mentioned the efficiency of Italy’s railways, but it’s not always the case. There are large numbers at Trento station waiting to travel south this afternoon. The regional train is inexplicably delayed – first for ten minutes, then indefinitely. Unfortunately the regional ticket doesn’t allow travel on the Freccerosso or EuroCities services that pass through Verona, so it’s a sweaty waiting game for around an hour. Though it appears that Trento station has had some relatively recent upgrades, and nobody has discovered the cool waiting room on the platform.
TravelCaster Tips
Getting here : Trento is around 90km north of Verona with up to three trains per hour. Connections also arrive from Venice and Bologna. Plan your trip via TrenItalia – though my advice is to buy tickets on the day from your starting station, Note that different operators may require specific tickets. Prices are shown clearly on ticket machines.
Orientation : From Trento station, turn right out the the main entrance, crossing two small roads and follow your nose into the compact old town. To reach the cable car, turn immediately right after the station to cross a road bridge. The cable car station is around 100m across a second road to the right.
Public Transport : Along with trains, Trento is well connected with bus services across the region, inlcuding to Lake Garda. Details are on the Trentino Transport. The company also runs the Trento Cable Car – a round trip costs €5, though visitors staying overnight get a free Trentino Pass.
Food and drink : Just before entering the old town, there are a few budget cafes selling drinks and snacks. There are a handful of bars and restaurants around the Cathedral, where a main cours at lunch comes in at €15-20, with a local wine starting from €5 a glass.
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