A Night Near The Opera

My hotel couldn’t be in a better place; just a few steps from the Old Town Square in one direction, and in the other, some of the biggest cultural buildings in the city. Given the ongoing energy crisis caused by the war in Ukraine, some countries have opted to dim the lights on landmarks, but in Wrocław they’ve still go enough in te meter to illuminate the stunning Opera.



The Opera gives an insight into Worclaw’s history, because it was orignally named under the city’s German name, Breslau. Until 1945 it was the largest city east of Berlin, and only fully gained its present name following the Second World War. Towards the end of the conflict, Breslau was the scene of a bitter three month siege.

Heading south from the Opera, the Old Town ends and there’s an air of early evening rush hour as people board packed trams running out to the suburbs. There’s a small number of rough sleepers on the streets, largely being ignored and barely bothering everyone else. The main railway line runs over a large bridge across the main street, and below is a welcome treat.



Right across Europe, former derelict railway arches are being transformed into thriving small businesses. Along here there are about two dozen bars and small restaurants attracting a good after work crowd. And because it’s away from the tourist area, a beer costs less than £2.

Poland makes many of its own great beers, but here you’re more likely to get something from Germany or the Czech Republic. Thankfully there are no confusing menus – most places simply list their beers, usually from light to dark, cheap to expensive.

Back in the Old Town many of the tourist bars are doing a decent trade, but it’s usually better to step back a few blocks and find something a but more local. The Paka Pub is just that. – a place for local conversation. It’s got a friendly and welcoming feel, even though I don’t understand a word being spoken. Yes, I’m a typical tourist. Across the road is another bar showing the Champions League football. Translating it’s name into English produces an interesting result : The Ministry of the Herring and Vodka – a nod, I think, to the bar food on offer.

Twoje zdrowie, as I think they say around here.



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