TravelCaster

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It’s a Saturday morning, and an historic day. On this day fifty years ago, ABBA won the Eurovision Song Contest with Waterloo. As I had seen in Stockholm, the group is right recognised as one of Sweden’s greatest exports. So it seemed appropriate to be travelling today to the city that hosted the following year’s contest : Gothenburg.,

But first, there was a slight delay at Oslo’s central station, where NewsMutt had got into a fight. With a cat.

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This huge bronze sculpture was built in 2000 to commemorate a thousand years of Norway’s capital. It had the nickname of the tiger city, hence the statue.

There was a queue of people waiting for the train south to Gothenburg. It seems to be a popular place for Norwegians to spend as a weekend away, saving a few Krone along the way with the slightly cheaper prices in Sweden. Although in this part of the world, everything is relative.

The VY Trains service has no first class, but what it does have is a selection of carriages for every taste. Here, for instance, is one specifically for families with young children, Next to it, one suitable for pets. My favourite by far is the quiet coach – the Stillsone– where – after an initial conversation about something I don’t understand – even the elderly French couple shut up.

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Like the line from Bergen, the route to Gothenburg is one to be savoured. After passing though non descript towns outside Olso, we are quickly gliding through inland lakes, climbing mountains and marvelling at the scenic views.

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With each leg of this journey, I’ve started to do less and less resreach about the places I’m heading to. And with Gothenburg’s there won’t be much time, with just one afternoon and evening to check out some of the highlights.

Arrival is efficient and on time. And my hotel couldn’t be closer – being built within the complex of the main railway station. The First Hotel G has a huge atrium overlooking an art exhibition.

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In the UK, if someone asked if you fancied a bit of Fika you’d most likely give then a strange look, or perhaps a slap in the face. But it turns out that Fika is part of daily Swedish life, roughly translating into “a coffee break with some cake.” And they don’t come much better – or biggger – than at Cafe Harasum.

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These are Hagabullen, possibly the world’s biggest cinnamon buns. A young couple sitting next to me manage only half between them, and in between garbled Swedish I hear them asking for a “doggie bag” to take the rest away.

Harasum is located in the historic Haga district, once the home of the city’s poorest workers, it’s now one of Gothenburg’s most visited neighbourhoods, filled with cafes, gift shops and other independent businesses.

Along with the main river, Gothenburg is built around a series of waterways which, during the summer, are lined with cafes and tourist boats. In early April it is a more sedate affair, but the setting provides a good foreground for the city’s many historical buildings.

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The city centre is marked by Kungsportsplatsen – King’s Square – and is a good place for shopping, food and drink. The Sulahall is a great indoor food market – selling fresh meat and cheese – but also housing a number of restaurants. A few on the outside are also open into the evening.

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Despite the hugh prices, it’s been great to sample some of the many beers Scandinavia has to offer. From fizzier pilsners to the strongest of stouts, you can find a great selection at Olhallen : 7an. It’s one of the oldest “drinking palaces” in the city centre. Inside, a mix of long tables – made for sharing drinks with friends – are flanked by stools and smaller seating areas. Actually, the whole place would be full with fewer than fifty people in it, but it has an atmosphere to be savoured. Drinking as it should be done.

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