TravelCaster

---

Good Friday gets off to an early start. Today it’s all about getting to Tallin, the capital of Estonia. It is possible to get from Vilnius by train but you can’t do it all in one day. And so the bus is the only viable option. I decide to take a cab from the hotel to the bus station – it’s only a short distance but better than trying to navigate the dodgy pavements slabs of Vilnius.

---

---

---

Vilnius bus station is typical of almost any other in the world. It’s seen better days, and features a curious collection of characters, even at 6.30am. Travel by bus is a great leveller, because there’s no such thing as first class here. Well, actually, in theory, there is. In recent years, competing bus companies have done their best to woo new trade. Today, I’m using one of the fastest growing operators, Flixbus. Green Wi-Fi and charging points are promised on board, and for a small premium on the already great value price, you can book a double seat.

---

At least, that was the plan, “Seat 5A” as printed in my ticket didn’t exist. There were no numbers on any seats, meaning an initial state of confusion as we boarded the bus. People soon realised you just had to sit anywhere and be done with it.

---

For a journey scheduled to take nearly nine hours, I was relieved to have a double seat for the first leg. A Russian-American girl and a guy from the UK – travelling separately – provided some good conversation as we exchanged tips about travel. They were going as far as Riga in Latvia, about halfway to Tallinn.

At Riga, more confusion. New passengers joined, and this time there were more forceful conversations : “But I booked these seats,” insisted a father with his son. Yes, we all booked specific seats… I end up forefeiting my comfortable place by the window so they can sit together, and end up use behind the driver next to an extremely tall man with long legs. I’m thankful, having crossed from Latvia to Estonia, more people leave at Parnu, allowing me to get my original seat back.

As we finally arrive in Tallinn it’s started to rain. It all feels a bit of an anti climax, and looking online aaat the hotel I’ve booked, the reviews aren’t great. Fortunately, I’ve paid a slight premium on the room price which means I can cancel right up until 6pm on the first night. I quickly scan my booking app and decide to splash out on something a little more plush. It turns out to be a good move.

---

48 Hours in Tallinn

Tallinn’s main bus station is just about within walking distance of the Old Town but with the rain coming down I decide to get an cab. Yuri, my driver, is completely silent throughout. I’m relieved to finally arrive at the My City Hotel. It sounds like it should be a budget brand, but the exterior exudes elegance.

---

---

Things get better on the inside, too. My passport has revealed it’s my birthday, so without any prompting I get a delivery of champagne and chocolates to the room. They obviously need careful guarding…

---

---

The change of hotel means I’m right on the edge of Tallinn’s Old Town. As a tourist this is the place you’re likely to spend most of your time, though the city has a lot more to offer than these historic streets. Just around the corner is the Estonias National Opera, but I like something I can see for free, like the impressive Old Town Hall.

---

---

The bell tower provides an obvious viewpoint, but it’s only open from June to Sepetember. This being March, it isn’t an option, but one of my favourite pubs in Tallinn is. This is my third visit to the city, and my third to Karja Kelder. Hidden in a cellar just off the Old Town market place, it’s one of the most friendly places you’ll find in the city. Tonight it’s looking a bit quiet, but Tallin tens to come to life a lot later in the evening. You can get a main course and a decent beer here for under 20 Euro, not a bad price for the tourist heart of a capital city.

---

---

After that, things got a bit mad. Regular followers of the blog will know that I can rarely resist a good song, or even a bad one. Having experienced a performance in Finnish back in Viilnius, it seemed an obvious choice to visit Tallinn’s very own Helsinki Kaaroke Bar. The reviews of the place were not good : OK if you’re Finnish and over 40,” said one.

What you need to remember is that FInland and Estonia have a long history, The Tallinn to Helsinki ferry is one of the busiest lines in the world. And it seems that much of this is down to the fact that many Finns come here for a party at the weekend, because alcohol is considerably cheaper. The result was a bar full of extremely drunk people – of all ages – singing Finnish hits from the last 60 years, Some tunes were dirges, songs of tragedy and reconciliation – others were happy clappy singalong affairs. To say it got bawdy would be an understatement – as I went to leave a old man accused me of trying to steal my own coat, which I had hung on his neighbour’s seat when I arrived.

---

Being Easter weekend, the hotel had decided to be extremely civilised and run breakfast from 8am to 11am. This was much more sensible than many places I’ve encountered, allowing me a leisurely morning to relax before heading out on the tourist trail.

The Viru Gate is one of old Tallin’s main landmarks – an entrance through which trade has flowed for hundred of years. Many visitors are taking many selfies, though few have spotted the modern day trade currently being done in part of the city walls.

---

---

---

A walk up Viru street beings you to the market place, which looks just s good in the sunshine as it did last night. But there is something missing from the scene, probably because it’s still a bit early. The Olde Hansa restaurant is one of the best known in Tallinn, specialising in a medieval dining experience. Food is served by wenches and drink is taken from clay pots. Frankly, it’s all a bit overpriced and tacky for my taste.

---

---

From the market place, the streets get steeper and narrower, leading up to the hill overlooking Tallinn. Here you’ll find the Estonian Parliament and impressive churches, including the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, a reminder that – up until fairly recently – Estonia was under Russian control. At the time of the Cathedral’s opening, it was part of the Russian Empire. It’s Easter Saturday, and inside, an Orthodox priest conducts a service to a tiny congregation, far outnumbered by the visitors. But as famous as this building is, photography inside is forbidden. This doesn’t bother NewsMutt too much.

---

---

A short walk from the Cathedral stands the Toomkirk – the Town Church. And a few steps further brings you to a viewing platform overlooking the city. From here you can see the port of Tallin, and the impressive contrast between the older and newer parts of the city. But today, nobody’s looking at that, because of this pair…

---

---

They were, indeed, an impressive pair of birds. Not least because they weren’t stealing food, or asking for tips.

Food and shopping are plentiful in Tallinn, and while you may pay a little extra for eating an drinking in the Old Town, the surroundings are usually worth it. Tips include

Nimita Baar : The Bar With No Name. Locals and tourists alike mix in this no nonsense pub. By day and in the early evening, it’s essentially a sports bar doing cheap food. Late at night it becomes more of a party place, and you may have to queue to get in.

Levi’s Valjas : You may have difficulty locating the tiny entrance to this place on Olevimagi street – there are no signs, just a small set of steps leading into a cellar. It can be a bit quiet, but it’s a cosy place for a drink in an underground venue.

---

---

Sigmund Freud Bar : There are plenty of places for cocktails in Tallin, but this laid back place close to the Old Town market place is one of the friendliest. Beers are available too.

Peppersack : Located opposite the Olde Hansa restaurant, this is is a place for meat lovers. Steaks, pork and chicken come in hearty portions.

Kompressor : A pub that specialises in pancakes. What’s not to like?

---

---