I’m not a massive fan of fitness apps. But I do have a watch that measures my steps, and a quick check this morning shows that in the past couple of weeks I have walked over 200 kilometres. It sounds impressive (at least to me) so deserves a celebration.
The Bavarian man in the bar last night had given me a few tips for places to visit, and top of his list was the Cafe Frischart near the main market, where I should insist on trying a Schmalznudel. Now this could have been a running local joke – send the dumb tourist for a tin of tartan paint, that kind of thing. But said Schmalznudel is a real thing – and just about the only thing the cafe sells.
Yes, it’s a kind of flat donut but without the hole. Pretty basic, you might think, but if you’re going to do one thing you should do it well. It’s served warm and is delicious – reminding me of the beignets I’ve previously fallen in love with in New Orleans. On the table are sugar and condensed milk – not for the coffee, but to top your Schmalznudel as you wish. By the time I leave there’s a queue at the door for these delicious objects.
When I started this blog over a decade ago I thought that my trusty sidekick would perhaps provide a fun and unique perspective to travelling solo. NewsMutt has had plenty of adventures over the years, but rarely has he met his match when it comes to a photo opportunity. Today, that changed. And frankly it was a terrifying moment.
Beyond the main square, Munich’s old town is easy to get around, and at every corner there’s a new building or monument to surprise you. Palaces, churches and gardens are all within a 15 minute walk. Today’s cold and dull weather takes the shine off a bit, and I can imagine these places being packed out in the summer.
I’m also thinking what the city would have looked like back in 1979, as there is a famous connection with my home city. Nottingham Forest won the European Cup that year when they played Malmo here. Trevor Francis, famously the UK’s first player costing a million pounds, scored the only goal. The following year, Forest did the double – this time beating Hamburg one nil, though that game was played in Madrid.
There isn’t quite enough time to get to the Olympic Stadium where that first match was played. But a short walk from the main square takes me back to the Vicktualienmarkt – a sprawling market dating back over two hundred years. The main part has been redeveloped to give the traders a more robust infrastructure. And it’s the perfect place to pick up fresh food, flowers or gifts.
It’s just a few days away from Easter, but it’s still cold enough here for snow – a couple of showers pass over and I’m pleased that I packed clothes for all seasons, though two pairs of shorts lay unused in my suitcase. Munich deserves more than 36 hours of your time and I intend to return in the future. Apart from anything else, NewsMutt has taken a shine to another lion, who looks less than impressed.
NewsMutt 
Glad you enjoyed the Schmalznudel – and no, it was not a running local joke 😂
hope to see you in Munich again for some more great karaoke performance!