Sunday, and the start of the second week of my trip across Europe. It’s over 600 kilometres from Bremen in Germany to Basel in Switzerland – a journey that takes almost seven and a half hours. And because this was the weekend before Easter, things were busy.
Using a rail pass has many advantages, but one thing that may thwart your plans are “optional” seat reservations. I hadn’t booked a seat on train, and only noticed the day before that all of the first class places were sold out. So my departure from was an hour later than planned.
This also meant I’d have an extremely limited time to visit Basel, since my onward train was at 0835 the next morning. The Deustche Bahn ICE trains are wonderfully modern and comfortable, though the passengers on board seem determined to make as much fuss as possible. A couple travelling with their elderly parents spend an age arranging themselves in the seats, arguing over exactly who should sit where. Another couple, with a young child and a screaming baby, have sprawle themselves across four seats.
I search for a spare seat in another car, openly to find they’re reserved for Bahn Bonus members. They are, of course, all empty – but you don’t want to tempt fate on a German train; seats that appear to be free at the start of a journey can be booked while the train is traveling, meaning a possible early exit from your chosen place.
And so to Basel, which is bathed in a chilly evening sunshine. The immediate area around the station is a chaotic mix; two accordion players are competing for tips while a few rough sleepers look on, This isn’t the stereotypical image you expect of a city in Switzerland, but everywhere has poverty, and it often shows up at railway stations.
But all of this is soon forgotten in the comfortable surroundings of the Hotel Schweizerhof right opposite the station. I am given another room that deserves its own postal code, complete with a balcony and view of the transport hub below, which is only obscured by my companion.
The visual interruption doesnt matter, because it seems at every corner, Basel delivers a great photo oppportunity. If you’re staying in a hotel here (as opposed to rented accommodation) you are given a Basel Card which allows free use of all public transport, a 2 hour ticket on the city’s sightseeing bus and discounts to many local attractions. I wished I’d booked an extra night here.
While the tourism offers seem very generous, the discounts are countered somewhat by the prices here. The Swiss Franc is still used – roughly aligned to the Euro – but everything in Switzerland comes at an additional cost. So it’s a good thing that the views are free.
Basel is split in two by the River Rhine, and many visitors here have come on cruises from Amsterdam. The riverbanks are fairly steep on the Old Town side – but what you can’t see in this photo are the many terraced areas, often taken up by cafes and restaurants – though also a few public places, I’m pleased I’ve come in March, because it’s easy to imagine the crowds that would be gathered here in the high season.
The enormous Kunstmuseum is one of Basel’s big attractions, though unsurprisingly it’s closed on a Sunday evening. Immediately acros the busy road is the impossibly attractive Ritterstrasse – marking the start of the Old Town area. It is deserted and beautiful.
Many of the buildings along here are connected to nearby schools or other official functions, which means a distinct lack of tacky tourism. It seems that gift shops and most of the cafes are restricted to the edge of the Old Town, and this apparent barrier to commercialism only adds to the charm. And it’s not long before you reach the centre.
Basel Cathedral’s history can be traced back to 1019, and much to day’s structure still dates to the sixteenth century. The surrounding Munsterplatz is this evening an oasis of calm – but you can imagine a very different scene in the Summer.
There are further quaint squares tucked around the streets here, but soon enough Basel turns into what looks just like any other large town or small city; a central retail area with chain stores, fast food outlets and bars that do their best to convey the “genuine” Swiss experience. Like a German Beer hall…
One short evening – let alone a Sunday in March – is nowhere near enough time to explore a place like Basel. But I think I’ve got the hang of the place and it may warrant a return visit.
TravelCaster Tips
Getting here : Basel is situated on Switzerland’s north-western border with Germany and France. Some 100 kilometres from Bern. Travel can be booked through Swiss Federal Railways, though many other European operators and agencies also sell tickets. You can also arrive here by boat with an eight-day Viking Cruises trip starting in Amsterdam
Orientation : Basel’s Old Town is a 20 minute walk from Basel SBB station. From the station entrance, follow the tram lines – or take a tram – before turning left at the Kunstmuseum.
Public Transport : Basel is well served by a network of buses and trams, with hotel guests getting a free Basel Card on check in. For wider travel, Swiss Railways offer a three day pass – which can be used over the course of a month – for just over €250, covering all trains, buses and boats. A four day Eurail Global Pass costs slightly less, though only covers rail travel – but is a better option if crossing the border into France or Germany.
Food and drink : Basel has an abundance of restaurants and bars, but expect to pay for it. A main course – even in a bar – will cost at least €25, while a 0.5 litre beer comes in at around €9-€10.
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