It had been my second time in Stockholm, and I was pleased to have discovered some more of its neighbourhoods away from the Old Town. The next leg of the journey was 600 kilometres south to Lund, a town just outside Malmo, and right at the south western tip of Sweden. Today is a relatively simple one – with just one train to take me directly there – in about six hours.
Stockholm Central station was busy with morning commuters, but I once again made use of my first class rail pass to take advantage of the SJ Lounge. The train was on time, and busy, with most first class seats booked up. Sweden’s high speed trains are efficient, with free tea, coffe and fruit available for premium passengers.
Lund would be the briefest of stops – just an afternoon and an evening to explore – but I deliberately chosen this as a stopover before heading into Germany; it would have been technically possible to do so in one day, or taking a sleeper from Malmo. Although I was on a schedule of sorts, it didn’t seem worth rushing things to much.
Arrival in Lund at lunchtime, and while the railway station frontage is nice enough, the first thing you see is a somewhat grotty 1960s pedestrianised area – though it quickly makes way for a beautiful historic old town.
Lund is relatively small, but its population of 90,000 is boosted by its huge university. In fact, the university was specifically founded in the 1600s after Sweden won the much-contested Skone region from Denmark. The seat of learning was designed to actively promote the Swedish way of life. As such, the campus forms a central part of the Old Town.
The white building, just out of shot here, is the official University House. This one, though, was originally built for the King of Denmark, around a century before Lund was taken by Sweden. It’s a cold afternoon in late March, but around 4pm the town has a bustling feel about it, as students start to make their way home and locals, many riding bicycles, start their end of work commute. And while ther are big brand names on the shopping streets, there are also lots of independent outlets, creating a vibrant and confident feel to the place.
At the centre of Lund stands its impressive cathedral. It’s been described as the most powerful representatations of Romansesque archtiecture in all of the Nordi countries, ad you don’t have to be a history expert to appreciate why. Two enormous towers – known as the “lads of Lunds” dominate the frontage. Inside is equally impressive, and you can even explore its crypt, bringing home just how old the church is.
Like all good European cities, Lund has a great indoor market hall, selling all kinds of fresh and cooked food. Much of it has been turned into trendy food hall stalls, though for Sweden the prices here don’t seen over the top. I’m here on a Thursday so it’s not too busy, but it’s easy to imagine a bustling scene on a weekend.
The town also has a great selection of bars and restaurants, doubtless some of them being propped up by the student economy. At Staket there are two offers; a casual wine and cheese place and a full menu Italian outlet – both hours in an historic building near the town square. Again, for Sweden, this is a place offering good value and very good service,
In O’Leary’s bar an enormous man is proudly belting out the Ukrainian national anthem. The place is packed, because Sweden are playing Ukraine in a World Cup qualifier. The Ukrainian man receives respectful applause from the rest of the customers, standing in solidarity with his country, currently being invaded by Russia. The applause doesn’t last too long, however, as Sweden comfortably win 3-0.
What I like about this bar – despite its plastic Irish theme – is the attention to detail; I am not served a drink until I can prove I have a seat – no standing during big games like this, and many hopeful customers arriving after kick off are turned away.
I’ve barely scratched the surface of this attractive town – which also offers an outdoor museum and a botanical garden. Another visit during warmer times might be in order. But tomorrow marks my exit from Scandinavia – and hopefully some cheaper beers.
TravelCaster Tips
Getting here : Lund is easily accessible by train from Malmo (12 minutes) and Copenhagen (1 hour). Using Eurostar, you could get here in two days from London. Websites like Rail Europe offer simple ways to plan your trip, including options for seat reservations if you already have an Interail/Eurail pass.
Orientation : From the train station, simply walk across the road and follow the street until you hit historical buildings. The whole of Lund’s Old Town is walkable from one side to the other in about 20 minutes.
Public Transport : You won’t need to use the buses within central Lund, but the wider town and the Skane region are served by local buses and trams.
Food and drink : Lund is generally better value than Stockholm, although alcohol is taxed here at the same rate as the rest of the country. A 0.4 litre beer costs between €6 and €7. A main course in a restaurant comes in at €15 to €20. Cheaper options are available with takeaways and happy hours,
TravelCaster 
Leave a comment