The flight from Oslo to Bodo – in Norway’s far north – takes a little over an hour. The pilots of the SAS (that’s the Scandinavian Air Services airline as opposed to the British special forces) are highly experienced in navigating this region, but tonight’s strong winds prove to be a challenge. The aircraft is battered about on the approach leading some passengers to go vey silent. For others – like the drunken Norwegian man in front of me – it all appears to be perfectly normal. I don’t understand a word he’s saying but it all sounds hilarious as he laughs loudly at each bit of turbulence.
So it’s good to be on the ground. Bodo airport is tiny, and with only domestic flights here, there are no customs checks. The locals watch carefully over the baggage belts, wondering what they’ve let it.
There are a few hopeful taxi drivers waiting at the entrance, but many people head to the bus for the short ten minute ride into the town centre. It’s late, windy and trying to rain when I finally check into the Smarthotel – part of a small chain of modern hotels across Norway. The rooms are compact but functional. Although it’s after 11pm, I decide to venture out in search of refreshment.
The Public bar (see what they did there?) is a rock themed pub. He music is loud but familiar – a mix of Eighties and Nineties hits with nothing too offensive. A 0.5 litre local Pils lager comes in at around €10 – pretty standard for Noway. The crowd seems happy enough – bars here are open until around 2am, there appears to be just one actual nightclub and all are overlooked by friendly security staff. One drink is enough for me after a long day and two flights.
When you think about Noway, you perhaps imagine cute wooden houses, glorious fjords and stunning mountains. Bodo has none of these, at least around the main centre. The Smart Hotel is on a traffic island leading to the ferry terminal; across the waterway is what appears to be an oil depot. The main waterfront is not the picture postcard I’d hoped for.
This is a working port, and although it attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists, most are using it as a connecting point to other destinations such as the Lofoten Islands. In the summer, there are ferries to these and other places, day cruises, a chance to see sea eagles. Today it’s blowing as strong gale, the winds bringing with them squally showers of hail. At times it’s hard to stay upright
In 1940, aroun 80 per cent of Bodo’s buildings were flattened during a devastating bombing raid by Germany. Miraculously only fifteen people were killed, thanks to well planned evacuations. So the post-war period brought with it a huge reconstruction job, leaving Bodo with some rather less than flattering architecture.
The Tinghus (Court House) was previously a bank, and the offices of a newspaper. The block style reminds me of the City Hall in Oslo, reminiscent of the 1950s. But it was in more recent times that the town planners reall put the boot in. Bodo’s Main Street is partly pedestrianised, and in the centre of it all is the awful Glasshuset shopping centre, a 1980s atrium containing all the hallmarks of that decade, inlcuding fake grass.
Arguably the best sight in Bodo is outside the main town, though it takes me longer than I had hoped to get there, thanks to taking a bus in entirely the wrong direction. But no matter – a single €4 ticket lasts for an hour, so I get a bonus view of the coast road before heading back towards town (a useful tip on a wet and cold weekend).
The Luftfartmuseum is Norway’s official aviation museum, and it is a stunning place. Two adjoining hangars tell the story of the county’s civil and military aircraft history. Full size aircraft are on show, together with stories of the people behind them. It really is an immersive experience, even if aeroplanes aren’t your thing.
The museum, which opened in 1994, is based here because of Bodo’s strong military history. It played a huge part during the Second World War and was a strategic site during the Cold War, being the failed destination for an American U2 spy plane which was shot down by the Russians. With current events in Ukraine, walkiing among the exhibits here focuses the mind.
It’s mid afternoon and time for a visit to a sports bar. Not because there is any sport of note, but a massive hailstorm has enveloped the town. That’s the thing with the Arctic Circle – you never quite know what’s going to hit you. Regardless of a boring Premier League match on the TVs inside the bar, there is more entertainment to be had watching the people braving the elements on the street.
It has to be said that Bodo is perhaps best visited in the Spring or Summer. In better weather it may have been possible to visit one of the many islands around here. Further afield, the Lofoten Islands are fast becoming a big tourist destination. In and around Bodo there are plenty of outdoor activities – hiking, sea eagle cruises. This weekend wasn’t one for much of the outdoors.
But Bodo was always going to be the starting point of this adventure, and if nothing else, the town has a very good selection of pubs.
Norlaeningen is a cosy cellar bar that features live music on Fridays and Saturdays and karaoke on Sundays. I’m a day early for the latter, and too early for tonight’s performance. An early start beckons for tomorrow’s 300 kilometre trek ever more northwards. But not before a return trip to Public, partly because it’s en route to my hotel, and partly because another significant hailstorm has hit.
Just out of shot to the right, an extremely drunk local woman is doing her best to chat up a French man. He plays along for a while until she attempts to stand up and almost collapses on the floor. Nobody laughs because they know how much it’s probably cost her to get this sloshed. Defnitely time for an early night.
TravelCaster Tips
Getting here : Bodo is situated 839km from Oslo as the crow flies, though the driving distance is 1,200km. Several flights per day are run by Scandinavian Airlines. The classic Night Train via Trondheim has been suspended (Spring 2026) wth buses running part of the route. Connections can be found via the Entur website.
Orientation : Bodo Airport is just a few kilometres from the town centre. Turn left out of the airport terminal and get any bus. Tickets can be bought on board or via the Entur app (very useful for public transport in all of Norway.
Public Transport : Bodo town centre is walkable so all facilities are within easy reach. The Number 2 and 4 buses are useful for the Aviation Museum, though you’ll still have a 10 minute walk from the City Nord stop.
Food and drink : This is Norway, so be prepared for expensive nights out. A cheap low strength beer will cost at least €6 (remember, you’ll be paying in Norwegian Krone) and a decent 0.5l draft beer is closer to €10. If you fancy drinking in your Air B and B, you can only by wines and spirits at the Government run Vinmonopolet stores. Food wise a main course can be upwards of €30. Cheaper snacks at cafes can be found – but again, expect to pay €5-7 for a sandwich.
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