Departing from Luxembourg should have been a relatively easy task – there are frequent direct trains to Metz in France, just 63km to the south. But the French railways company, SNCF, doesn’t like to make life easy – ever. Even with a rail pass, there is a mandatory reservation fee of at least €12. But this can be bypassed by taking the slightly slower regional TER trains.
So Monday begins with a connection to Bettembourg – though due to rain works this turns out to be a replacement bus. However, Luxembourg is unlike many other countries, in that its transport network actually operates efficiently. Everyone must have a seat on the bus and if it’s full they simply lay on another one. It all makes for a relaxing connection onward to Metz. And what a station to arrive at.
It looks more like a cathedral or a castle, with Charles de Gaulle guarding its entrance. It was actually built by the Germans in the 1900s, during which time this part of Lorraine was still annexed after France’s defeat in the Prussian War. It’s architecture certainly brings to mind a German style of wide stonework with decorative fortifications. My first impression is that Metz is a clean and confident city – and so it turns out to be.
The heavy rain I experienced in Luxembourg has given way to bright November sunshine – and unseasonally warm temperatures. Immediately its streets feel intrigung and inviting, and despite being in the north east of France, the mood of the buildings is distincly Mediterranean.
Place St Louis feels like it could be in Tuscany. Shops and bars are nestled behind a row of elegant collonades, though these buildings have clearly seen better days. The old celllars opening out onto the square are still in use today. And by night, the area is transformed into a place to meet, drink and eat. Yes, very Freanch in its alfresco mood – but also very Italian. You could easily be in Lucca or Pisa, which is no bad thing. Even in November there’s a lively vibe.
The centrepiece of the Haute Ville (Old Town) is the Gohic matsterpiece that is St Etienne Cathedral. Approached by gently sloping medieval streets, the church suddenly jumps out at you and dominates everything around it. Fitting it into a photo can only be achieved with a wide angle.
The church has earned the nickname God’s Lantern, because of the extraordinary amount of stained glass – 6,500 square metres in total.
Ancient meets modern in Metz, with the equally impressive Pompidou Centre. A younger version of its famous Parisian cousin, three levels of galleries present rotating displays of art. At the time of writing, you could see five rear ends of horses – an absurd protest against hunting and trophies – and a stone memorial detailing all of the England football team’s defeats in international competitions.
Art is very much a subjective thing, and visitors seem perfectly happy to part with €15 for the privilege of seeing it.
Yet there are plenty of sights to see for free here too, and the late Autumn sunshine adds charm to the River Moselle. During the summer, the Parc D’Eau becomes a playground for visitors and locals alike, with boat trips, kayaking and dancing fountains. Today it’s a rather more serene but pleasing setting for a walk., and picture postcard views.
All of the walking makes you hungry, and as you’d expect from France there is no shortage of places to eat. Cafes and pavement tables are everywhere, some attracting long queues at lunchtime. A good place for a snack is the Marche Couvert – the covered market.
This 18th century building is just across the road from the cathedral, and while most of it is fresh produce, there are a small row of small cafes towards the back, where you’ll pay a lot less for a snack at most other outlets. A Croque Monsieur comes in at just under €4 – perfect for a quck bite on the go.
The cafe culture is certainly alive in Metz especially during the early evening when many bars run a happy hour. These can often last until 8pm or later, and the usual etiquette is to order a large drink but only pay for the price of a small one. And for a relatively large city, the service is usually very friendly.
The Comedie Cafe – nestled between the Cathedral and the river – has a laid back but lively crowd on a Monday evening. In England you’d describe the decor as shabby chic, but here it’s literally an old building with funrniture that hasn’t been replaced for decades. (Note : The cobwebs here were for Halloween celebrations)
There’s also improvised fun. La Chaouee is less of a bar and more of a community enterprise. On Tuesdays, a pianist arrives with a stack of lovely old printed song sheets and music. The playlist is not as big as a karaoke bar, but the choice of songs spans all ages. Locals and visitors alike take their turn to sing. Again, this isn’t something you’d expect to find in a large city, but it’s what makes Metz feel so welcoming.
TravelCaster Tips
Getting here : Metz is 330km from Paris and can be reached in less than 1.5 hours by high speed TGV trains. Book via the SNCF website. Prices vary – TGV InOui services can be cheaper but less flexible if you want to change trains or cancel altogether. If using a rail pass there’ll be a mandatory reservation of €12. You can avoid all fees by taking slower more leisurely routes, possibly stopping over in Reims,
Orientation : Metz station is a 20 minute walk from St Etienne Cathderal in the heart of the Old Town. The Metz Pompidou s situated directly behind the station, accessed by walking underneath the road tunnel.
Public Transport : Although Metz is very walkable 0 and mostly flat – there’s also a large network of buses running frequently around the city, with a day ticket costing €5.90. Buy tickets from the machines at each stop and validate it on the first bust yo use by pressing the card to the reader.
Food and Drink : Every street has a cafe or bar on it so you’ll be spoiled for choice – and price. A decent coffee and cake will cost around €6, while a main course at a casual restaurant comes in at €15-25. There are plenty of cheaper options with bars offering small plates of cheese and charcuterie for around €10. A standard 33cl beer will cost around €4, but take advantage of happy hours – often from 6-9pm in the week. Note that many restaurants close between 2pm and 7pm.
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