Distance : Ljubljana to Lake Bled – 55km
Travel time : 1 Hour
Just about everybody I’d mentioned my trip to insisted that I must visit Lake Bled in Slovenia. And my AI assistant provided a perfect solution. In theory I could take the trains s far as Lesce Bled and then connect to a local bus taking me to Bled itself. But most of the buses departed from Ljubljana anyway, so it made more sense to do the whole journey that way.
Thankfully, Ljubljana‘s local bus website allowed me to not only buy the transport ticket online, but then also offered me the option of purchasing additional tickets for the various attractions at Bled. To make things even better, the local bus from Ljubljana is supplemented by extra “express” services that bypass the villages long the way – offering great views of the mountains en route.
For €5.70 this was a brilliant option, compared to the organised tours which would set you back around ten times that amount. The town of Bled is small enough to mean all of the facilities are within easy walking distance – and having left my bags at the hotel it was a five minute walk to the stunning lake front.
24 Hours in Lake Bled
It’s still early in the season which means things are fairly quiet. Having it pretty much to yourself is something quite special – aa later in the year the lake becomes a hive of activity. On the water you can hire a rowing boat or even take a swim. You don’t have to row yourself – there are options to take an electric boat which crosses to the island in just ten minutes, or a more traditional Pletna wooden boat. Dating back to 1590, they’re similar to a gondola, in that they are hand rowed from the back. 2025 prices for a return trip are €16 and €20 respectively – and again, these can be bought – commission free – from the Ljubljana bus website.
The tiny island is even more stunning close up, with its own church. A neighbouring cafe and souvenir shop are, at least, in traditional buildings – but the large terrace otuside suggests that this place could get quite crowded in the Summer. Both the Pletna and electric boats are tightly regulated – with visitors told they must come back in the same group they arrived with. This helps to control the overall number of people on the island at any one time. It’s no surprise that this location an be hired for wedddings or just about any other event needing that perfect backdrop – so if you’re organising your own trip, it’s possible that you could tun up when there’s no access. But today is all about tea and cake.
One thing you soon notice is just how ugly the buildings in Bled look from the island. Five storey hotels have sprung up over the years – but then again, eveyrone wants that perfect lake view, so the only way to build is up. From my third floor room at the Hotel Lovec, the view can be described as mixed – yes, you can see the lake – and also the neighbouring hotel and concrete shopping precinct.
It al reminds me of a mini Niagra Falls, where the wonderous sight of nature is spoiled by tacky tourism. Like Niagra, Bled even has its own casino – and the area descending towards the lake has a collection of bars that no doubt like to party a little later in the year.
In early April, it is still quiet. Dinner must be eaten early because kitchens close at the local restaurants at about 9pm. There are numorous choices, including the Blejka Hisa which serves up a large menu of traditional Slovenian dishes, pasta, seafood and delicious steaks – even the decor is all a bit Wild West. It’s not the cheapest place – but at €36 the steak melted in my mouth – and the service was good.
Lake Bled to Villach
Bled is a brilliant centre four connecting with the outdoors. There are mountains, forests, gorges and more, which can be explored by car, foot or cycle. But as a casual sightseer you can do the main bits in one day – and I’d recommend Ljubljana as a base. It, as I did, you can head about 50 km north into Austria.
I’d visited Villach on a previous trip so I knew what I was letting myself in for. Like Bled, it’s a base for exploring nature and the wider mountains and lakes. But it would also be a good excuse to fit in an extra country and location for the night.
Everything was going well – a bus took me to Lesce Bled where the late running Zagreb-Vienna train pulled in within 15 minutes. It was only after I’d settled into a comfortable compartment that I realised I’s left the folder containing my passport and house keys in the hotel at Lake Bled. I quickly disembarked at Jesenice station, which didn’t look like the mist exciting place in Slovenia.
But luck was on my side. I was able to call the Hotel Lovec and ask them to send the folder over in a taxi. From making my first frantic call to getting my passport back took about 35 minutes – meaning I had time for a leisurely coffee before joining the next train to Villach. It could have been a lot worse had a I crossed the border, and the taxi cost me €40.
Villach is Austria’s seventh largest city and while it lacks the instant charm of Bled it still offers great views towards the Corinthian Mountians. The River Drava separates the new and old towns and on a sunny afternoon its a pleasant place to take a stroll. Along the banks I notice a picture perfecrt building. The Heilingenkruez Catholic Church has an elegant design – and my AI assistant tells me it was the site of a miracle in the 19th century where a wooden cross grew from a wall. There’s no sign of it today but the neighbouring remembrance garden gives the whole place a spooky feel.
There’s nothing spooky about my accommodation, the Goldeness Lamm, a tasteful boutique hotel – unless you count the fact they allocate me the exact same rom as I had last time. Looks like w’re slumming it yet again.
During the summer, Villach comes alive at night with a distinctive apres ski feel – though with the revellers being hikers rather than skiers. The main street is a sea of rather tacky bars – most of which are closed at this time of year. But tucked away in a hidden alley near the church is the fabulous Turmsturbel.
Local beers are served by the enthusiastic and friendly host Andrea – who speaks perfect English and can advise on the different styles. Here is a 1270 from Hirter – Austria’s second oldest private brewery. You can have a toasted sandwich too – or just enjoy the free nibbles served with your drink. The Turmsturbel is a collective business, owned by five local friends, and certainly has a relaxed and welcoming feel.
There’s more good beer on offer at De Lucke – again, hidden away from the main drag of bars and well worth a visit. Again, there are local beers on off and a relaxed vibe. I know from my previous visit that it gets very popular at the weekends, its 0200 closing time makes it good for a late drink if clubs are not your thing.
Both Villach and Bled offer access to the wider area, and if you enjoy the outdoors they’re both perfect bases, which can be combined into a longer holiday taking in two countries and very different landscapes. The stop in Villach has also allowed me to add an extra location to my journey – the final destination is next.
TRAVELCASTER TIPS
Lake Bled
Getting here : Lake Bled is served by frequent buses from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana. You could book an organised tour or – for just €5.70 – take a local bus with a journey time of one hour. Tickets can be books via this website and are good for any journey on that given day, offering you the option to return at a time to suit you. Alternatively you can travel via train to Lesce Bled station and then transfer to a local bus. See the Slovenian Railways website for details. Along with services to and from Ljubljana, it’s possible to travel as far as Vienna and Zagreb from Lesce Bled, making it a good stop off as part of a wider tour.
Orientation : Many buses go to the main car park in the centre of Bled, which is a five minute walk from the laken shoreline. Some services drop off at Bled Union stop – simply walk down the hill on the main road to reach the lake. The boat trips both depart from jetties below the Hotel Park casino complex.
Boat trips : There are several ways to get out on the water – hire a row boat or take one of the tourist services from the shore. At busy times it’s advisable to book a ticket in advance – use the bus website listed above which will offer you a number of options.
Food and drink : As you’d expect for a tourist resort, prices here are higher than in some of the surrounding towns and villages. Expect to pay around €20-45 for a main course and €5 for a 0.3 litre beer. Slovenia has an excellent choice of wines which are often sold by the bottle – starting at about €25 in a restaurant but for as little at €7 in a shop. Wines by the glass are sold in 0.1 litre measures starting at about €3.60.
Villach
Getting here : Villach is a major railway hub with connections to many places in Austria and beyond. From here it’s just 2 hours to Ljubljana, an hour or so to Salzburg or 4 hours to Vienna, for example. The town makes a great stopover for longer tours. The Austrian Railways (OBB) website is by far the best way for checking domestic and international timetables.
Orientation : From the main station in Villach, head across the road by the bus station and immediately downhill towards the bridge crossing over the River Drava. All the main sights are in the Old Town which is extremely compact and walkable. As you cross the bridge, Ledergrasse – to your right – is where much of Villach’s party nightlife is based – though for something queiter follow the tips in the blog.
Public Transport : As mentioned, everything you need in central Villach is at your feet. However, to explore some of the nearby lakes and towns like Klagenfurt, regional trains run frequently from the main station. One option is to buy a regional day pass allowing you to hop on and off trains along the way.
Food and drink : Austria has a tradition of simple, hearty meals and Villach has a wide range of restaurants and fast food outlets to suit every taste. A main course here will cost about €20-35, though in a traditional beer hall you can find snacks and small plates for less. A 0.3 litre beer costs about €4; though there are places with a large selection of craft beers that are priced according to strength and quality.
TravelCaster 
Leave a comment