It has to be said that Dubrovnik’s Old town is pretty compact. Spending more than a couple of days based here can make you begin to feel that you’ve seen it ll. But it’s only when you step out of teh street and into its buildings that you discover more than enough to fill a day. And first on my list is a landmark that looks equally stunning by night.
The Rector’s Palace stands on the site of a former medieval fortress, which was destroyed by a fire in 1435. It seems the city’s forefathers learned little from that experience, because the building bounded – among other things – the city’s armoury – which in turne led to a serious fire in 1461. If Disney characterised Robin Hood as a fox, Warner Brothers might have cast the Rector of Dubrovnik as Wile E Coyote.
Today, the palace serves as one of the city’s main museums, housing artefacts from down the centuries, including an original bench that was used in the courtroom here. The Rector and his advisers would pass sentence on wrong ‘uns, sending them to the cells next door.
Also honoured here is Miho Pracat, the wealthy sailor who I drank to last night at the Seaman’s Club. And if you climb the stairs you can view the Rector’s living quarters, and look down on your subject though the palace windows.
The Rector’s Palace is a versatile building; at night it often becomes a venue for concerts in the open air courtyard. There’s also a small but exceptionally poignant photographic exhibition featuring images from the 1991 war. These pictures show how boarded up shops in the Stradun were defiantly painted with images of hope by local people.
Miho Parac may have been Croatia’s most celebrated sailor. but in the literary history of this nation, the award goes to Marin Drzic. He was the equivalent of Willian Shakespeare, and like his Western counterpart, famous for writing comedies using elaborate language and dark humour.
Just off Pucic Street is the “house” of Drzic – the quote marks here being important, because nobody quite knows where he actually lived. The exhibition states that he certainly worked as an administrator for the adjacent church – at least for a time – so the historians concluded that he must have resided in the building at some point.
Obviously, anyone can be a writer these days and claim the credit.
Viewpoints are everywhere in Dubrovnik. Judging by the thousands of visitors bumping into each other in the streets, I’d argue it must be one of the most photographed cities in the world. But to get the ultimate view, you can take the Cable Car to the 412 metre summit of Mount Srd.
At 2024 prices, a round trip will cost €27 per adult. Don’t be fooled by tour websites which can charge up to €65 for the same experience. If you’re feeling fit, you can purchase a one way ride and take the 1-2 hour hike back into town down the mountain.
The rich forests on the slops of Srd aren’t quite as extensive as they once were. Several fires over the years destroyed many of the trees, and the mountain was also the site of some of the fiercest battles in the 1991 war. An exhibition in one of the former forts tells the story, while a memorial marks the fallen.
Although I’ve been here for three nights, I’ve only just bothered discovering to bars right on my doorstep. Betula is housed in a basement halfway up Antinuinska Street in the Old Town. It’s speciality is cocktails, but it also serves one of the cheapest beers around here – a bottle at €4.20. The mood is laid back, and graffiti is positively encouraged.
Another great bolt hole is Barka Wine and Tapas Bar – which does exactly what it says in the title, to an exceptional standard.
How to get here – and how to do it
As previously mentioned, the Dubrovnik Pass offers great value fo entry into many of the sights in the Old Town. Buy it using the link here, not others you may see online – or you’ll end up paying over the odds.
The pass doesn’t include the Mount Srd cable car – this costs €27 and tickets can be bought at the base station – no prior booking is required. If you’re feeling more adventurous you can hike from the Old Town or take the 17 bus to the village of Bosanka, which offers a closer starting point to the summit – though it’s stil a steep uphill hike.
Concerts at the Rector’s Palace and other venues in Dubrovnik can be found on the official tourist website.
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