Many cities have ancient walls which you can explore. But few are more stunning – or more compete – than those in Dubrovnik. And to get the best out of a visit, get here early; by 10am during the peak season it’s possible that you’ll have to queue up, and then continually stop and start while the people in front of you pause for photographs.
The walls open at 8am, a good hour before the first arrivals from the cruise ships. One tip : don’t get caught out by the hefty €35 entrance fee at the gate. Instead, buy a Dubrovnik Pass for the same price online. This not only gets you onto the city walls, but also free entry into St Lawrence Fort (in the background of the pic) and a load of other noteable sights around town. It’s also valid for free bus travel around the city area.
The walk around the walls stretches for almost 2 kilometres, and beware, there’s plenty of climbing and descending to be done. But you’ll be rewarded with some brilliant views into the Old Town and out to the Adriatic. You’ll also get a reminder that you’re among real homes with real people.
You can’t come to Croatia without talking about 1991. The Yugoslav People’s Army launched an offensive in October that year, capturing much of the region and culminating in a shocking attack on Dubrovnik on December 6th. The actions drew international condemnation, and eventually led to Croatia gaining full independence.
Historic landmarks across the Old Town were badly hit, including the clock tower of the Franciscan Monastery. Today, it’s a peaceful retreat from the business outside – although annoyingly, the man at the entrance checking tickets bizarrely insists on playing Barry White songs on his phone throughout.
The interior walls contain frescos dating back centuries, but also a plaque containing the autographs of world leaders who’ve visited over the years.
Beyond the Old Town walls, it’s time to climb more steps up to St Lawrence Fort. Today it’s used for outdoor theatre performances, and I’m treading the same boards (or stones) as Derek Jacobi and Daniel Day Lewis. Though NewsMutt is more interested in seeing the real big guns.
The orange stip towards the bottom of this photo is a line of sea kayaks. Bur there’s a different kind of nautical landmark near the harbour that’s well worth a visit.
Miho Pracat was a famous sailor from these parts, who made a fortune and donated it to the locals. So it was entirely appropriate that in 1953 they named the Seaman’s Club after him. Located on a small alleyway just off the main harbour, it’s a very basic bar serving what must be the cheapest drinks within the Old Town walls. It’s strictly cash only here – but don’t worry, the place has its own ATM so you can afford a round.
Less than five minutes away is drinking of a more expensive kind. The Bura Bistro is a great place that does a mix of Mediterranean and Italian cuisine with extremely friendly staff that makes the prices and tip bearable. The only strange thing is the wine glasses, which require careful attention before taking a sip.
The rich food and drink on offer around here is enough to make anyone obese. But nobody is here to comment or dsicriminate. In fact, just off the Stradun is one of Dubrovnik’s newest bars, the Fat Bastard Pub,
I decline to ask whether the place is names after the large man sitting at the bar. But this is a great place for craft beer, and the Medvedgrad from Zagreb is a smooth pilsner that goes down well.
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