Many tourist destinations ar pretty dead first thing in the morning. Get up early and you may find that many of the shops are closed, bar staff are attentively cleaning up after the night before and nothing really gets going until lunchtime.
In Dubrovnik, it’s different. 8.30am and the coach loads are already arriving, many from the cruise ships that usually dock the night before in the nearby man port. Flags are raised in different colours so the various tour groups don’t get lost. I can hear Japanese, German and French voices competing for attention. Which makes me want to get away from it all.
This photo was taken the day before, but this morning the harbour is bustling with noise as enthusiastic sales people try to lure people aboard one of the many boat services from the Old Town. One of the most propular is the ferry that makes the short crossing to Lokrum Island.
An out of date website optimistically says the fare if just €5. That may have been the case a few years ago – today it’s €27 for a round trip. That said, this does include the entrance fee to what is a world-renowned nature reserve and heritage site. It’s only a 15 minute ride, but it’s great to be out on the water sailing past other craft that probably cost €27 million.
The small jetty at Lokrum itself is pretty non-descript. But it’s known globally by millions of fans of Game of Thrones. The TV series was filmed in Dubrovnik and Lokrum was the location for the King’s Landing. But the royal connections here aren’t just fictitious.
Following a shipwreck in the 1800s, Maximilian Von Hapsburg of Austria came to investigate what had happened. The story goes that his wife likes the place so much, they bought the entire island. Maximilian loved nature – and as well as planting an exotic botanical garden, he introduced Lokrum’s most famous residents.
Peacocks roam free here. Hundreds of them. And being the show offs they are, they sidle up to the tourists and gleefully pose for a selfie. The one in this photo could’t be bothered – but they simply don’t care about the humans. Or anyone else who invades their territory.
Maximilian wasn’t Lokrum’s first settler. A Benedictine monastery was built here in 1023. Today its ruins can be explored all year round, with pretty gardens planted around the cloisters.
However, as already mentioned, most visitors here are less interested in Christianity than they are the Faith of the Seven. Since I’ve never watched Game of Thrones , this sounds like a religion dedicated to the late Strictly Come Dancing judge Len Goodman. But no, it’s apparently very important – and the only queue of the day is for the replica Iron Throne. With great power comes great responsibility, especially when it comes to selfies.
Eat your heart out, Where’s Wally…
The rocky coastline here gives Lokrum an almost lunar-like landscape. Outcrops rise high above the sea and the stony ground quickly bakes in the midday heat. For those who want to cool off, respite comes in the shape of the Dead Sea. This isn’t a salty, floating area of water, but a pretty lagoon which alllows a safe area for swimmers.
The place is filled with families – and Lokrum’s a good place to bring children. There’s a large playground, a football pitch (play may be interrupted by peacocks) and a handful of cafes and bars around the island. Kids go on the boat for €5 – so it’s pretty good value to bring an entire family for a day trip – and there’s nothing to stop you bringing a picnic.
Despite the ferries being full, Lokrum is large enough to cope with the crowds. Paths lead in all directions, and if your legs can take it, you can climb 300 feet up to a fort in the centre of the island. The route is lined with rich forestation – and you quickly start to notice that fire hydrants and long water hoses follow the trails. It’s easy to see how fires could be started here, and quickly get out of control. And they’re prepared for it too – the island has its own fire service. No big trucks here – just useful ATVs to get to any emergency.
The tourist trade here is a good, efficient system. The boats probably hold about 200 people at a time, and the authorities bank on a seady flow of people landing on and leaving the island. That regulates the numbers at any one time, meaning you can easily find a tranquil corner to yourself.
Getting here
Lokrum’s ferry service runs all year round from the harbour in Dubrovnik Old Town. Trips run roughly every half hour and the crossing takes just 15 minutes. The last boat of the day is advertised on board and on signs around the island. There’s no accommodation here and overnight camping is not permitted.
A round trip (2024 prices) costs €27 for adults and includes entrance onto Lokrum’s nature reserve. Thereafter no additional charges for any of the buildings or swimming in the Dead Sea.
Read more about Lokrum’s history
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