When I first visited Dubrovnik in 2013, Croatia was only just taking off as a major holiday destination for visitors from the UK. It had long been a favourite for many Europeans, and global visitors were shown its charms via giant cruise ships sailing down the Adriatic coast. And then it all changed.
Game of Thrones propelled Dubrovnik back onto the global stage in spectacular fashion. It bacame the place to be seen. And – coinciding with Croatia formally adopting the Euro, the prices suddenly hiked. But there’s still value to be had if you know where to look. And for me, that starts at the airport.
Yes, you can pay €35 for a taxi to take you from the airport, but if you’re staying in Dubrovnik’s Old Town it won’t take you door to door. And neither does the much cheaper shuttle bus (€15 round trip). Because the Old Town retains its charm because traffic is forbidden. There aren’t even any hire scooters here. Which makes the whole place all the more charming, even if you do have to walk along the High Street to get to your accommodation.
It always looks as though it’s been raining along the Stradun, but this is the shimmering marble-like stone that lines Dubrovnik’s elegant main thoroughfare. From the shuttle bus drop off to my apartment at the other end of the main stretch takes a little over ten minutes to walk.
If you’re looking to stay in a traditional hotel here you’ll be disappointed. There are plenty in Dubrovnik, but only a handful of uber expensive places within the Old Town walls. Instead, most visitors stay in apartments which are in abundance. Although I’m here at the very end of the holiday season, it’s half term in the UK and – it would seem – other parts of Europe. A studio apartment costs around €90 per night.
It’s deceptively spacious with a decent kitchen area and a modern feel for what is actually a fairly ancient building. The friendly host, Gaspar, arrives within minutes of my text message and provides a helpful introduction.
Unlike my last visit, there are no awkward moments – in 2013 I had to pay the local tourist tax in cash; today it’s all been taken care of in advance, And there’ actually more than enough room to swing a cat. Or a Mutt.
As with my last trip, the Old Town is bustling by day. There are plenty of visitors milling around, a few taking advantage of a late season boat trip from the pretty harbour.
That said, many of the pavement restaurants are empty. This is late October, after all. It’s also Sunday, which annoyingly means nearly all of the convenience stores are closed. Part of the deal with an apartment is arranging your own breakfast. But I can deal with that in the morning.
Despite being on the coast, the rocky landscape means the beaches here are generall small and hidden in coves. On the Southern side of the Old Town is Buza Beach, which usually comes complete with its namesake of a bar. It’s closed today, but that hasn’t stopped a hearty group of swimmers diving from the rocks into the sea. It’s also a popular route for kayakers, and a perfect place to watch the early Autumn sunset.
Remarkably, that photo has no filter.
The apartment has helpful mood lighting, because the solitary window overlooks a side street. The local bar isn’t only within easy reach; I feel as if I could literally stretch my hand across and grab a drink from the customers.
It remains to be seen how much of a distraction this will be. There are shutters and double glazing but even with both closed, I can still hear the ambient noise outside.
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