In the middle of the afternoon, many Italian bars and restaurants close up. In the heat of July it’s easy to understand why; nobody can really enjoy themselves in temperatures of 32 Celsius. For the weary tourist, it’s also a good time to get some rest.
I’m woken from my snooze in the early evening with a sound that’s more like New Orleans than Pisa. A jazz band is playing in the street, just below my hotel. But that’s not the strangest sight.
Many European countries have a confusing array of law enforcement. The police could be national, regional, local or just for the tourists, However, this is the first time I’ve seen policing for animals. It tuns out that this is not a comedic advertising stunt, but the real thing. The Guarde Zofile is a bit like the RSPCA in the UK – except this is’t a charity – it’s paid for by the state. The main question is, what animals are they looking for?
There were no giraffes or lions on the way to the bar. But there was a bear. The Orzo Bruno is one of my favourite drinking etablishments in Pisa; a laid back bar specialising in craft beer. It’s about as far away as you can get from the ubiquitous Spritz’s served around here. And at 4 Euro for a small (but strong) brew, it’s good value too.
Pisa has an abundance of bars and restaurants, ad my tip is to veer away from the main routes and don’t go into the first place you see. Almost every side street has another Osteria or Trattoria to surprise you. And unlike other cities like Florence or Venice, a good meal won’t break the bank,
Another favourite place during my last visit here was the Piazza delle Vettovaglie. It may not be the prettiest square in the city, but it’s one of the most vibrant. There are three or four restaurants to choose form here, raging from a cheap and cheerful pizza takeaway to the slightly more elegant Hosteria da Fermento.
I’m not a huge wine drinker, but the extensive list in this p,ace gives you a thirst. An outside table is the perfect place for people watching, and in the case of tonight, one of the best steaks I’ve ever tasted. I’m not usually one for posting pictures of food – but this deserves a mention.
The meat is definitely there, just under the rocket and Parmesan – a very tasty combination.
Head back north across the Arno River and just off the main street, a small alleyway leads to the Piazza Chiara Gambarcorti. Again, this small square is not the most attractive, but by night it turns into an array of diverse restaurants and bars. La Tazza D’oro – roughly translated as The Golden Cup – offers no table service (and indeed, not many tables), but does have some of the cheapest drinks prices in town. The nearby Enoteca La Dolce Vita has a brilliant selection of wines and small plates – try the Crostini topped with Gorgonzola and Pancetta with a crisp local white for the perfect supper snack.
You won’t necessarily find too many party bars in Pisa. This is a place to sit back and relax. I’m here in July, during the University vacation period. The place picks up a little during term time, but this isn’t a city filled with night clubs. Which is entirely a good thing in my view. At busy times, bars generally stay open until around 1am, providing they have customers.
By day, the River Arno looks a bit grotty. By night, it’s a delight. On the right hand side of this picture you’ll see the lights of a small waterfront bar, which is nice enough – but beware, you’ll be navigating a series of narrow floating walkways, which is never a great idea after a few too many Aperols.
Nightlife in Pisa is pretty much whatever you want to make of it. And after 48 hours in this wonderful city, it’s time to get out and explore more of what this part of Italy has to offer.
TravelCaster 
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