A Peak Performance

The Peak District National Park – nestling in Derbyshire, but extending to parts of Staffordshire, Cheshire and South Yorkshire – is teeming with tourists during the summer. Not only are the roads crowded, its most popular spots are such that you may even have to queue to get on a footpath, or at least share it with large families, cyclists or horse riders.

So it seemed sensible to experience one of my favourite parts of the world in the slow season. Winter can bring spectacular scenery around here. Despite its name, the Peak District has no real mountains, and although some of its hills can be challenging on the legs, there are plenty of places to enjoy a gentler stroll.

I have just 24 hours on my hands, which is hardly enough time to scratch the surface of the 550 square miles (1,430 square kilometres) of land which make up the National Park. So for this short trip, I elect to stay in Bakewell – a small market town in the heart of the park.

On a damp January afternoon it’s not quite as pretty as this postcard suggests. During the daytime, Bakewell is a pleasantly bustling sort of place with plenty of choice – so long as that choice doesn’t extend beyond novelty eating or browsing outdoor clothes, for these are seemingly the two biggest businesses in town.

Witness first the Bakewell Pudding. Not, as every local will tell you, the Bakewell Tart. Legend has it that the pudding was created by mistake by a cook at a local pub, who misunderstood the recipe for a jam tart and accidentally added an almond topping. The idea was then apparently seized upon (or stolen?) by the town’s chandler, Mrs Wilson, who created a version for sale. The rest is history.

But by the time I arrive – at just before 5pm, the entire town is rather less bustling and, well, just about closed. I’ve booked a room in a pub, The Castle Inn, which is perfectly welcoming with friendly staff and good beer. But just a bit… empty…

Maybe at this time of the year, that’s the whole point. This is a country getaway without the tourists. It’s pleasant enough just to pull up a comfy chair, grab a bite and read a book. One place that is open until a stunningly raucous 8pm is the local chippy, a nice way to line the stomach for some more lovely beer. A former newsagents just off the main Square is now a micro pub, The Joiner’s Arms. Local beers aplenty, a cosy wood burner but not much in the way of customers.

Breakfast is served early – my own choice, as I want to make the most of the next morning. If you’re in search of culture there’s no shortage of choice around here. The grandeur of Chatsworth House is a short bus ride away – or a morning’s walk. While on a smaller scale, Haddon Hall gives you plenty of history and stately home vibes without the slightly extortionate admission price of its bigger neighbour. It’s worth noting that both houses are closed during the winter, though you can walk around the grounds of Chatsworth for free all year round.

It’s that kind of open access which – in many ways – created the UK’s National Parks in the first place. In 1932, the mass trespass of Kinder Scout in the northern part of the Peak District paved the way for new laws giving people the right to roam across private land. The Peak District was the first National Park created in 1951, and has been promoting the virtues of open spaces ever since.

My walk today is an altogether gentler affair – along mostly flat ground on the course of the old railway line.

The former station marks the start of the Monsal Trail, a walking and cycling route spanning 8.5 miles from Bakewell to Chee Dale. Yes, there are much more challenging walks nearby – but after weeks of heavy rain around here, it makes sense to stick to a good surface. This morning there are just a handful of other people around – the occasional dog walker, a couple of cyclists. Along the route, information boards tell the story of the Midland railway which used to run through this pretty landscape. And old stations like the one at Thornbridge still show clear signs of the infrastructure; bridges and platforms.

For many years there’ve been proposals to open up the line again; Peak Rail runs a heritage service from Matlock to Rowsley, some miles south. But the chances of it ever reaching Bakewell and beyond are slim. From Thornbridge the rolling fields of the southern Peak District stretch either side of the trail. There are footpaths to villages like Ashford in the Water, though today’s mud make even the greenest of landscapes look uninviting. The solid track of the trail continues to a spectacular sight.

At 537 yards (487 metres), the Headstone was the longest tunnel on the railway. Along the left side you can see a platform and small refuges – safety features of the era. It’s a stunning piece of Victorian engineering. And even on a cloudy day with drizzle in the air, the light at the end of the tunnel gives way to the walk’s highlight.

The 300 foot (91 metre) Monsal Head Viaduct spans the Wye Valley below. Today’s grey skies don’t quite do it justice, but the view is well worth sticking around for. That said, it you want to get the shot of the Viaduct itself, prepare yourself for a strenuous climb.

Along many walking routes, you’ll see memorials to various people who loved to visit the area. Usually, it’s a commemorative bench so you can sit down and reflect on the life of those who went before you. At Monsal Head, with its steep and slippery path, it can feel like you’re about to join them.

I’m sure Peter must have had a better sight waiting for him at the top. In the summer there’s an ice cream cart, a cafe, a gift shop and a hotel waiting to serve up much needed refreshments. It’s mid morning on a Tuesday in January, and nothing is open. My plan, to get the bus back into Bakewell, has also fallen short with the next one not sure for an hour. I pray for an alternative.

And one appears.

This is the remarkably pretty Little Longstone Congregational Chapel is as tiny as the village it serves. The Grade 2 listed building sits just across the road from Monsal Head, and had I been driving or in a hurry I’d have missed it. The interior is lovingly kept by volunteers, and there’s even a kettle with tea and coffee for “weary travellers”. They’re not just in it for kindness, though – next to the kettle is an electronic payment device which accepts credit card donations. God may well move in mysterious ways but he still has overheads to consider.

There’s still a bit of time before the bus is due, so an opportunity to walk from Little Longstone to its slightly larger neighbour Great Longstone along a quiet country road. Again, the village appears not too bothered about waking up on this Tuesday morning. There’s a smell of log burners in the air as I park myself in the wooden bus shelter by the green.

“It’s not showing up,” says the random elderly woman. “I can’t see it. What do you think?”. It appears that my companion is using a tracking app to see where the 173 bus to Bakewell is. The service “isn’t as good as it used to be” and “they’re often cancelling them.” I take a look and she’s right – no bus on he map. I check my own social media. Thankfully, the bus company has an up to date account, and although there have been some cancellations today, the 173 isn’t one of them.

In fact, it arrives slightly early, and is already busy with passengers from across the area. The driver seems especially eager to get to Bakewell on time, swinging around right corners, pulling up sharply at stops and generally creating a sense of urgency in an otherwise altogether slower pace of life.

It’s been an all to brief visit to the Peak District, a place I know extremely well. But it’s a place that can always throw up a new surprise. The Monsal Trail, off season, provides a place of tranquility and fresh air, easy walking for lazy people like me, with plenty of options for something more adventurous.

Getting here

By bus : The Peak District is well served by a network of bus routes enabling you to get here from Derby, Manchester or Sheffield. From Derby the Transpeak links to Matlock, Bakewell and Buxton. For a more leisurely journey, winding through he villages of the southern Peak District, take The Sixes.

Tip : If you’re planning to use more than one bus in a day, consider buying a Derbyshire Wayfarer ticket. One price gives you unlimited travel on almost any service in the county – including the whole of the Peak District. A small supplement also allows rail travel, including to or from Sheffield.

Practical stuff

Stay : I stayed at the Castle Inn, a traditional pub dating back to the sixteenth century. There are four comfortable rooms in an annexe away from the main pub, and there’s a good breakfast selection included in the price. There are plenty of other small hotels, B&Bs and holiday lets in and around Bakewell and many of the surrounding villages.

Eat/drink : If you want to do the touristy thing, the Original Bakewell Pudding Shop has its own restaurant. Along with the aforementioned Castle Inn there are also a few pubs and eateries in the town. One of the best for local beers is the Joiners Arms. But beware, if visiting in the low season, many places close early.

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